By: PO Saunders
- On this page:
- How to do your own repairs and upgrades.
- Hardware and software tools for under $100!
90% of computer repairs and upgrades for desktop computers [vs. notebooks] are very easy ... We'll start with the tools, and many you'll have already.
***Please enlarge page for best viewing***
- Small zippered PC tool kit, with nut drivers, part pullers, lost part grabber, tweezers, and importantly, a plastic vial for very small parts. I added hemostats and some Q-tips. $12.
- Flashlight. [You have one already.]
- Small vacuum. [Body not shown] $10 from a flea market. USE PLASTIC NOZZLE ONLY .... NOT METAL!
- CD ROM diagnostic software from posaunders.com session.
- Small towel or rags. [Free]
- Some blank CDs $3
- Spray bottle with generic window washer $3.
- Cloth Bag [everything fits except the vacuum.] Free ... or a small cleaned old toolbox. [You've got several.]
- Small, stable light [battery powered] or clamp-on work light, or small old table lamp. Free.
- Small squeeze bottle of alcohol. $0.10 for the alcohol.
- Small non-conductive, non-explosive silicone lubricant. [Mine is an old "Finger Ease" a spray for guitar necks]. $4 if you don't have it.
- Magnifying glass. [Note: This one has a loupe in the lens which is nice. Radio Shack sells a 3 lens one for $8.99 ] $5
- Digital Multimeter: $12 and up.
- Old toothbrush: Free
- Swiss Army Knife with loupe, scissors and pliers [Optional and expensive.]
- Hemostats $5
- Magnifying Spectacles: $5 new @ the Dollar Store.
- 256 Meg Flash Memory/Drive $10, with
neck lanyard
for Free, Optional ... You don't wear it. This is so you can
find
it. Orange nylon mason's line is good too.
DON'T USE WD40 ON COMPUTERS ... Some people use it for everything. It's an inhalation hazard and very explosive if you get a spark. Contacting the can with electrical wires can burn a hole in the can and explode the whole can. It's not listed on the MSDS [some inert ingredients aren't] but it's rumored to contain graphite ... which is conductive.
If you have to buy most of them, add all of the tools up, they're well under $100, and $25 is for my CD! This is my personal set of basic tools and they're are all I need to do most of the computer repairs I do. Buy the CD! When the economy gets better, it will be $150 ... This is hard-earned data.
Homeowners: to do their own basic work will only need #1 in the tool pic. ... $12. They should have the discipline to put all the tools back into the zippered case and keep it in a special place.
Aspiring Pros: A lot of professional work is "theater" ... You can buy a fancy aluminum case full of tools for $250 and up, but the tools shown are all you need to earn a living ... more about pro theater later.
More about tools:
Some tools I use when working on computers are optional. A major one is a pair of "dykes"or "side cutters" that are mostly used for cutting Ty-raps. [$7-15], vs. wires.
You will seldom need to get into cutting and
stripping wires
unless you start doing fancy stuff like factory automation. I
use a lot of Ty-raps to keep wires bundled and neat.
[It's good to have a bunch as supplies.] Honestly,
tightly-bundling wires is a questionable practice, because close wires
may
"cross-talk" [induce electricity in each other]
even though shielded, and
are best separated. The advantage to bundled wires is convenience
while working, producing a neat looking job and better air flow through
the computer for cooling. The computer above was actually working when
I took this picture and there is only one Ty-rap shown. ... at the very
top. I wanted the picture to be real with actual tools and a
functional, but rough PC. Another useful tool that saves [or can make you] a lot of money is an ethernet cable crimper that fastens the plastic ends on the cable. [under $30 most places] I always
recommend hard-wired
networks vs. wireless for lots of reasons: security,
simplicity, fewer problems and cost. Retail stores will rape
you
for ethernet cables. Using the crimper, bulk cable, and the
inexpensive connectors will save you money the first time you hook 2-3
computers together in 2-3 rooms. The tool and supplies are all
available at chains like Lowes. Here's a decent little tutorial on RJ-45 connected
wiring, using a crimper. Bad tools, in general, are e.g. a hack saw, which generates conductive metal filings that can cause a short on the exposed motherboard. Needle-nosed pliers are usually not needed in computer and are a bit too hard on small gauge computer wires. Claw hammers are permissible only if you're working on your own stuff. I actually used one to take one of my own problematic cases apart, but the brutalized computer still works.
Actual PC hardware work [other than notebooks] is easy. Here are generic instructions for working on most desktops:
Rule #1 ... Before installing anything, make sure you have your specs for your system and buy only parts that are compatible .... mostly cable hookups and sizes [dimensions].
Rule #2 ... Before opening the case ... Disconnect everything except the power cord to the surge supressor/battery backup, which will keep the computer grounded. Ground yourself with wristbands [$12.00] or at least touch the metal computer frame frequently.
Rule #3 ... Avoid touching things inside the case unless you have to, and particularly avoid "rooting around" with tools like screwdrivers and needle nose pliers. E.g. to get wires out of the way. Use common sense.
Relax ... Getting the case open is often way harder than changing most components. Your manufacturer should have a manual on line if you can't figure out how to get the case open.
Study ... Familiarize yourself with what and where different devices are in your computer: The motherboard is obvious ... Look for the drives, the power supply, expansion slots, the main CPU chip and so forth.
We're trying
to accomplish two things in this hardware section:1. Convince you that hardware installation is pretty easy and you should try it.
2. Convince you that we know what we're talking about.
We're NOT trying to write yet another tutorial on hardware repair and upgrades. They've been done and are on line in varying qualities. Google: RAM or Hard Drive or Video Card and installation. After you look at 3-4 versions, you'll know what you need to know. THE IMPORTANT THING IS TO OPEN YOUR CASE, HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS AND DO SOMETHING! It's an olive out of the jar thing ... after the first, the rest is easy.
Installing RAM: If your computer slows down when you're working and you see the hard drive light flicker, it means that you're using virtual memory on the hard drive ... That is, writing to the spinning disk rather than to and from the RAM which is solid state memory and much faster. You need more RAM (Random Access Memory). Check your computer specs for RAM type ... there are many. It's cheap and will greatly improve your work speed. It's a piece of cake to install. Your computer could probably stand a couple of megabytes.
Check your specs to find out what your computer can handle. See what's installed and whether you have
spare slots. If you only have two, and
they're filled with 256 or 512K chips, you'll pull them out and throw
them away. Replace them with two 1 Meg chips for $25-30 bucks
...
you'll be glad you did.Handle the RAM only by the edges and not the metal contacts which reduces corrosion and the risk of a static spark that can fry RAM. See the picture, right. There will be little clips that secure the ram in place. Open them with your fingers or pry them off with something like a wooden tongue depressor. Pull out the old RAM and replace, or add RAM to empty slots and reclip. It he clips go on, it means that the RAM is correctly installed. If not push harder until the clips work. That's all there is to it!
Hook everything back up and turn on the computer. Check the RAM total. Right click the My Computer icon in Windows and choose Properties. If it doesn't add up exactly, don't worry, but it should be close. 98% of the time, these instructions are all you need to know.
Installing Cards: One of the easiest installs on your computer is to install PCI cards. Typical examples are ethernet cards, video cards and modems. "PCI" is short for Peripheral Component Interconnect which is pretty self-explanatory. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peripheral_Component_Interconnect
To install a PCI card: Turn off your computer, the power supply switch in the back of the computer and your battery backup's on switch, which will keep the computer grounded but safe. Remove your computer's case cover. An antistatic wristband is good because PCI cards like other components are VERY sensitive to static electricity .
Follow
any instructions that came with the card.
Many have software, but it may or may not be needed. Your computer
might detect the new card and install any new drivers if its a
simple
card like ethernet.Use a screwdriver to remove the screw holding the PCI slot cover in place. Press the card into the motherboard and make sure the hole in the face of the PCI card lines up over the hole where you removed the cover screw. Replace the screw that you removed before to secure the PCI card into place. Leave the computer cover off, but don't Plug your computer back in and turn it on.
If you have trouble when you install your card, it may be that the card is not correctly seated. Check and press firmly. The phenolic substrate for the card is tough stuff and hard to break. Avoid touching any of the circuits or components! If you restart and the card still doesn't work, you'll probly have to learn about troubleshooting and look at the manufacturers website ... You may even have to call, but this is rarely necessary, even for novices.
Install a Graphics Card: Graphics cards are a bit more complicated than the average PCI card, especially these days because of the gamers who are demanding power users. Video cards can still be installed by novices if they can follow instructions. See this: http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-3118_7-5023982-1.html
Fans:
Case fans often die and are easy to replace.
You may want to replace it just because it's noisy. If
it runs slowly and/or makes a grinding sound, it's definitely time to
go. They're usually $10-12 or so for the garden variety.If your fan dies on your power supply, don't try to replace it, just get a new power supply for $25. Power supply installations are also "simple" just tedious ... see "Power Supply" Below
Installing an Internal Drive [Hard or CD/DVD optical Drive]: Drives are a bit complicated and depend on what you want to do. Example applications are:
1. Add a second or third hard drive for more storage, "subservient" to the main C Drive where your Operating System lives
2. Add/replace CD ROM drive
3. Replace the C Drive and re-install the operating system.
Here's a tutorial on installing and IDE disk [with the wide, flat cables]. http://www.helpwithpcs.com/upgrading/install-hard-drive.htm Again, use Google and have a look at 3-4 tutorials and don't fail to look at your manufacturer's technical manual, which will probably be on line . Newer SATA drives are simpler and easier to install. Here's a PDF manual from Western Digital: http://www.wdc.com/en/library/sata/2079-001042.pdf
If you're interested in "1", for more storage and backup, our suggestion is that you first consider using an external USB drive. They're cheap, pretty fast, safe and transportable. You can get a great one for $80-100 and the convenience will probably outweigh an internal installation.
Installing a power Supply: This is a bit of a task, but if you label all of the wires and connectors, you can handle it. Here's a good tutorial: http://www.fonerbooks.com/r_power.htm I take one exception to what they say on the page. "By leaving the old power supply connected, installing the new power supply, and then replacing the leads one at a time, it's nearly impossible to mess up" I really think that's crazy, and will drive you crazy ... There are way too many wires. Just use a medium Sharpie and some masking tape or Scotch Tape and paper tags and you'll do just fine. Usually, a standard power supply for a 250-300 watt, regular desktop is under $35 with shipping if you shop on line. Don't save $2-3 by shopping with an unknown vendor.Pick a name you know.
Power supplies are pretty safe to work on with regard to electrical hazards. The output is only 12 volt DC and lower. The 110V parts are enclosed in steel.
Warnings: "Solve" any release catches on the connectors vs. yanking them ... really. Again ... avoid touching the electronic circuits on the board and don't use sharp or metal tools that could damage delicate electronic circuits. Loose screws and parts in the case are of course prohibited.
Installing your own power supply will save your $50 or more in cash, plus the time and travel for dropoff and then going back for a pickup. If you need to call us because you get in trouble
Installing a Motherboard: Don't bother. You can do it, but ... Most of the time you're way better off buying a new computer. Time is money!!!
Never throw away an old computer! Case Studies: "Basket Cases". Here are couple of computers I still use very effectively. Both lack their covers.
Basket Case A:
HP Pavilion, This is an old XP working computer I use primarily for receiving email only. I used it for years until XP semi-crashed and I bought a new one. The crash was
my
fault because I was "too busy" to maintain it and
keep it clean. I did what I had done 3-4 times before with a
Windows crash ... Installed Linux, saved my old files on
disks
and an external hard drive and bought a new computer. [Note, I use my
latest computer to do the power work like edit and render HD video. I
use my "good" computer to send
emails vs. receive them]. This keeps my new computer pretty safe.
My email computer screen and my work computer screen sit side
by
side and the two box system works well. The email window on my old
computer screen is one less window I have to worry about while working
on my good computer. It just sits there with the email screen
conveniently enlarged. This
HP also has
some sort of "humorous" problem with one of the optical drives .... a
blue electrical arc and a bright flash occur when the CD Rom drive is
plugged in, so
the wires just dangle. I
don't care how it looks so the case stays open. Some expert once told
me that leaving the case off is bad because the air doesn't flow
correctly through the enclosure. I don't think I believe that. It's a
common sense thing, more air is more air. I eventually fixed the crash
and the Windows XP works, but Linux is still installed as a dual boot,
just in case. Basket Case B:
Off Brand Clone, AMD chipset. This was a rescue that somebody else had crashed badly, robbed the optical drives plus other parts from, and was a bare-bones gift.
It's 1.8Ghz with a Meg of Ram and a decent hard drive. The
reason
the case is off this one is because the old optical drive I salvaged
from a much older computer doesn't fit. I put a new ethernet PCI card
in it and installed the Mepis version of "Ubuntu". a Linux
distribution. It's a very nice computer and fast
with the Linux OS running. The FREE Linux distro [700 megs]
came
with Open Office [compatible with MS Office] , and a bunch of other
software. It will do almost everything that my Vista computer will do,
except run Corel Draw and Vegas Pro 8. It's fast because the Linux
distro [as configured] takes a 250 Meg footprint vs. Vista, which is at
least 3X as large.
I set it up to access my email accounts ... and unplugged it.
It
sits there off line and unplugged from the wall as backup. [Note, my
external hard drive backup is usually unplugged too ... If we
get
yet another lightning strike and everything blows up ... I'll still be
in business. It's comforting to know it's there. ______________________________________
If you want some phone time for help with hardware installation ...
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